The delicious gold of Perlis

From the smallest state of Malaysia, Perlis, hails an unexpected hero – the ‘Harumanis’ mango. One might think that a mango is a mango, but the Harumanis is so unique and sought after that it has inspired festivals, and has even prompted the Perlis government to register its name with the Intellectual Property Corporation of Malaysia (MyIPO) in 2011 to avoid imposter breeds from selling inferior products with the Harumanis label.

The true origins of this breed of mango is unclear, but it is believed to have originated from Indonesia and then grown here locally. It was officially registered as a breed by the Department of Agriculture Malaysia on 28 May 1971. The Harumanis is often called one of the most expensive mangoes in Malaysia as it can command up to RM40/kg at its peak pricing. For context, the average weight for a single Harumanis is 500gm.

So, what’s so special about this mango?

The sweetness and fragrance of the mango are signature traits of the Harumanis, with a Brix level of 18% - 20%, compared to an average of 14% for other mango breeds. (Brix, or Degrees Brix is a scale measurement for soluble solids in a liquid. The soluble solids in fruit juices are mostly sugar, so 20% Brix means approximately 20% of the fruit content is sugar). The flesh of the Harumanis is also less fibrous than most, giving it a smoother, silkier texture when eaten.

In simple terms, it is a sweeter, more fragrant and silkier mango, making it highly desirable. So desirable in fact, that Harumanis is in high demand and is exported to countries such as Japan, China, Singapore and United States.

However, the Harumanis is a very finicky plant and successful cultivate requires a specific set of conditions for good harvest. According to Associate Professor Dr. Mahmad Nor Jaafar (Universiti Malaysia Perlis Institute of Sustainable Agrotechnology, INSAT), very hot and dry weather during the day, and cold windy conditions at night are needed for a three-month period to ensure the tree can produce healthy flowers.

The flowering Harumanis trees will not bear fruit if it often rained during the period or if it’s too hot, the flower will wilt before it can pollinate. The amount of water in the soil must be balanced with suitable pH for good fruit growth, and the fruits must be wrapped.

After a fruit is almost mature, it once again requires strong sunlight to develop a high level of sweetness before it is suitable for plucking. Plucking it at the wrong time will affect the texture of the fruit and may expose the mango to damage by fungus.

The specific conditions, limited yield and high demands both domestically and overseas contributes to the high price factor for the Harumanis mango.

The influence on Perlis’ agricultural landscape

Harumanis are harvested once a year between April to July, and a single tree can yield up 50kg of fruit. For a farmer with just 100 trees, at a conservative RM20 per kg, a single season can bring in RM100,000. The high value of the crop has sparked interests in many to start farming this fruit, even shifting focus for some farmers from traditional crops such as rice to Harumanis.

Perlis, being at the North-most tip of Malaysia sees long periods of hot, dry weather. With optimal weather and soil conditions, it’s no wonder that the state has put a lot of focus into protecting the quality and the Harumanis brand. In 2019, Agriculture and Agro-based Industry former Minister Datuk Salahuddin Ayub even proposed that Harumanis be included as a must-have item on the menu at ministry and government agency events in an effort to help develop the Harumanis industry.

Other agencies such as Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (FAMA) and Malaysia Agricultural Research and Development Institute (MARDI) also have special units to support the development of the Harumanis industry, providing support in form of marketing Harumanis to the international markets, as well as advice and support to the farmers in order to advance the technologies and techniques used to increase yields.

The evolution of the Harumanis industry

For the longest time, it was thought that Harumanis could only be grown in Perlis. However, in recent years, other states such as Kedah, Terengganu and Kelantan have claimed that there are farms producing mangoes with similar flavour profiles, although they are not able to market it as Harumanis as the name had been trademarked by MyIPO for mangoes grown in Perlis only.

In recent weeks, Department of Agriculture Malaysia had discovered through a census in the Marang, Kuala Nerus and Kuala Terengganu areas, the existence of over 100 Harumanis trees, believed to be 30 – 40 years old with up to 3 yields per year. The locals who grew the trees, had not known the quality and value of the plants and had been leaving the fruits to rot at the base of the trees.

This discovery spells great hope for the expansion of the Harumanis industry in Malaysia, creating more opportunities for growth and export in years to come.

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It is with pride that we celebrate the delicious achievements of Perlis in the first of our BFM ‘Pride of Malaysia’ series in conjunction with Merdeka and Malaysia Day.

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